Friday, October 11, 2013

Line the Angie and square the neck!

Hi All! Jeanine here again :) Today I am soooo excited to share a tutorial with you for squaring the Angie neckline up and lining the bodice! If you do a lot of children's sewing you probably know how to do the bodice already as this method is not uncommon, but I've included it anyway !

To start go and grab that front bodice pattern piece and trace it out on a sheet of newspaper roll or parchment paper or even freezer paper. 

Once you have that traced grabe a ruler and draw a line down and then over  to meet the edge of the pattern (as seen below) I did the regular neckline for my Angie, however I found that squaring the neck opened it up a little so I recommend going a cutting line above your usual comfort level.

Cut outer pieces and lining pieces of your bodice front and back. I recommend using a very thing lining if you are using regular weight woven cotton for the outer. 

Now you will follow the pattern directions for sewing the darts - just remember do them on both the outer and lining pieces.

Once your darts are sewn place your bodice front lining and outer and place right sides together and pin. Do this with your back bodice lining and outer pieces as well.
 (my toddler wanted to help with the picture - see how still she holds the fabric :) 

Now sew around the front bodice neckline and then sew around the back bodice neckline. 

Now grab your pinking shears (ideally) if you don't have pinking shears use your fabric scissors, and carefully trim around the necklines

Carefully snip into the corners of the front bodice neckline being very careful to not cut the stitching (below).

Now on both your front bodice and back bodice pin the bottom of the armhole to about the midway point as shown below. You will sew all four armholes from the bottom up to that midway pin.

Carefully trim around the armholes leaving about an inch un-trimmed before the end of the stitching.

Now is everyone's favourite part -IRONING! Dun dun dunnnnnn......

Iron both the necklines flat 

and now iron the armholes, carefully folding under the edge that you did not sew in line with your stitching. Make sure your outer and lining are ironed to the same so you catch both and none peek out over the other when you sew.

not put your bodices right sides together and pin the shoulders up - the outer to outer and lining to lining (I took several pictures of  this to hopefully have this step clear to you)

It will look a bit twisted on both sides, this is normal :)

Now sew those shoulder seams straight across!

Put your bodice to "normal viewing mode"  See how tidy everything looks - yay! 

Now do NOT worry about those open parts of the armhole! We will get to them!

For nowput your bodice right sides together and again pin the outers together and then the linings together

See below, the outer fabrics are down and you pull the lining fabrics up to pin - make sure the middle seams match perfectly!

Sew a straigh line right up both sides and then turn to the normal viewing mode again.

NOW we will get to that open armhole gap! Pin about the armhole, don't feel bad if you need to use many pins. I carefully make sure the fabric is where it needs to be - work the curve and don't be afraid to give it a little stretch if it needs it.

Sew around the entire armhole - like top stitching but it will close the hole!

And now you move on to the pattern and follow as directed for the skirt and attaching it to the bodice! 

Side view, gosh I LOVE a dress with pockets!

PS. Because the lining adds a little thickness You may need to cut the elastic a little shorter or want to do a casing . If you do the casing option remember to give yourself extra seam allowance when attaching the skirt to the bodice..

and just for laughs  - a little blooper collage. 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If you have any questions on this tutorial or our patterns or just want some more sewing chatter feel free to join in on our fun in the Facebook Lab group!


Heather said...

Awesome!! I am definitely going to do this, thank you so much for the amazing tutorial!!!

Danice said...

So pretty. I do love squared necklines. Lined bodices seem to look better than the ones that are unlined, also. Plus, lining is usually easier than sewing a narrow neckline trim anyway :)

Mama Lusco said...

I just made my first Angie with a lined bodice using your tutorial. Thanks so much for the great how-to.