A Tutorial for Adding a Hi-Lo Hemline to the Shana!

(and the added bonus of how I did the sleeves)

Hello there sewing peoples! Jeanine here again and this time I want to show you a very quick and easy how to for getting your Shana to have a hi-lo hemline!  I ADORE hi-lo hemlines! This is likely largely due to the fact that since becoming a mom my "style" includes a lot of tights and jeggings and skinny jeans, especially as the weather gets cooler and the Shana is one of my favourite shirt patterns because of the unique collar and relaxed fit. So here I combine two things I adore! 

I cut my front pattern piece at the 27" length line (no picture). For the back I drew a line starting at the 27" line on the non fold side of the pattern piece and gently angled it down. How far down you go depends on how much of a hi-lo you are wanting to do. I went down to the 33" cutting line and find it perfect for covering the bum without looking all that extreme. Business in the front and party in the back! 

(as you can see I played with the where I wanted to cut my hemline a few times before deciding) 

For the sleeves I simple added the "bell" pattern piece to the sleeve pattern piece and folded it in line with the top of the sleeve top piece and I cut at the longest cutting line. 

Here is a back shot showing the hemline in the back, pretty isn't it?! 

The fabric is Sisboom Lucky Girl, Marcella for the main print, and the diamonds are from the Madison from the sisboom Happy Land line.

and a side view

What do you think of the hi-lo hemline?  Any little pattern change tutorials you would like to see here on the blog? Do you prefer chocolate or vanilla ice cream?

A FLASH SALE!!!

Today is a great day to get a start on the patterns you need for your winter and holiday sewing!

Happy first Friday of November!!! Today until midnight tonight (11/1/2013) The Etsy shop is 40% off with the code FIRSTFRIDAY

https://www.etsy.com/shop/scientificseamstress

Which patterns will you be picking up?

(This picture collage is just a FEW of our patterns we have in SHOP! So be sure to have a good luck before this amazing sale ends!)

ps. Feel free to share this post with your friends so they can get in on the sale as well :)

Dresses are All the Raglan Rage! (A Tutorial for our Raglan Pattern!)

Hey all! Jeanine here again and this time with a super simple modification to girly up the all the rage raglan pattern! This pattern is a classic, with many options for length of the bottom hem and the sleeves, hood or neckband, and even has dolly sized patterns included for your 15" or 18" dolls :) 

For this tutorial we will just be working with the two main pieces for your front and back and the two ruffle pieces (which I will be telling you about). Everything else will be sewn as per the pattern. 

To start cut all your pattern pieces out. Now you will take your front/back piece and cut a ruffle strip that is twice the width of the front/back piece (as seen below). How long you choose to make your ruffle is up to you if you want it to be tunic length or dress length.

Now set your machine to the longest stitch length and do NOT back stitch, make sure you get a good tail end to start your sewing off as well.

and stitch along the top of each ruffle strip. I serged the edges first since I am sewing with a waffle knit and it is a little unstable and I was concerned about fraying.

Next you will gather each ruffle piece to the the width of the front/back pieces.

Then pin each ruffle to the bottom edge of the front and back pieces and stitch using your knit fabric stitch (shown below) or serger (or zigzag if you do not have either of those).

after the ruffle is sewn on flip the ruffle down and then I like to top stitch. 

Now your ruffle is attached on both the front and back pieces and you just continue to sew the pattern as directed! Nice an easy but oh so cute!

The waffle knit is a bit heavy and stretchy by the way, so, if you use it be warned that your fit will be a bit looser than if you use a more T-shirt like fabric.

and one last picture to show the hood option! I LOVE hoods in the fall (and I prefer putting a hood in to dealing with neck binding. shhhhhh... that can be our little secret)

And that is how I changed up the All the Rage Raglan! How about you? Have you made the pattern? Tried modifying it? Love bow fabric? Tell me all about it! And please join us on facebook in our Lab group! 

Line the Angie and square the neck!

Hi All! Jeanine here again :) Today I am soooo excited to share a tutorial with you for squaring the Angie neckline up and lining the bodice! If you do a lot of children's sewing you probably know how to do the bodice already as this method is not uncommon, but I've included it anyway !

To start go and grab that front bodice pattern piece and trace it out on a sheet of newspaper roll or parchment paper or even freezer paper. 

Once you have that traced grabe a ruler and draw a line down and then over  to meet the edge of the pattern (as seen below) I did the regular neckline for my Angie, however I found that squaring the neck opened it up a little so I recommend going a cutting line above your usual comfort level.

Cut outer pieces and lining pieces of your bodice front and back. I recommend using a very thing lining if you are using regular weight woven cotton for the outer. 

Now you will follow the pattern directions for sewing the darts - just remember do them on both the outer and lining pieces.

Once your darts are sewn place your bodice front lining and outer and place right sides together and pin. Do this with your back bodice lining and outer pieces as well.

 (my toddler wanted to help with the picture - see how still she holds the fabric :) 

Now sew around the front bodice neckline and then sew around the back bodice neckline. 

Now grab your pinking shears (ideally) if you don't have pinking shears use your fabric scissors, and carefully trim around the necklines

Carefully snip into the corners of the front bodice neckline being very careful to not cut the stitching (below).

Now on both your front bodice and back bodice pin the bottom of the armhole to about the midway point as shown below. You will sew all four armholes from the bottom up to that midway pin.

Carefully trim around the armholes leaving about an inch un-trimmed before the end of the stitching.

Now is everyone's favourite part -IRONING! Dun dun dunnnnnn......

Iron both the necklines flat 

and now iron the armholes, carefully folding under the edge that you did not sew in line with your stitching. Make sure your outer and lining are ironed to the same so you catch both and none peek out over the other when you sew.

not put your bodices right sides together and pin the shoulders up - the outer to outer and lining to lining (I took several pictures of  this to hopefully have this step clear to you)

It will look a bit twisted on both sides, this is normal :)

Now sew those shoulder seams straight across!

Put your bodice to "normal viewing mode"  See how tidy everything looks - yay! 

Now do NOT worry about those open parts of the armhole! We will get to them!

For nowput your bodice right sides together and again pin the outers together and then the linings together

See below, the outer fabrics are down and you pull the lining fabrics up to pin - make sure the middle seams match perfectly!

Sew a straigh line right up both sides and then turn to the normal viewing mode again.

NOW we will get to that open armhole gap! Pin about the armhole, don't feel bad if you need to use many pins. I carefully make sure the fabric is where it needs to be - work the curve and don't be afraid to give it a little stretch if it needs it.

Sew around the entire armhole - like top stitching but it will close the hole!

And now you move on to the pattern and follow as directed for the skirt and attaching it to the bodice! 

Side view, gosh I LOVE a dress with pockets!

PS. Because the lining adds a little thickness You may need to cut the elastic a little shorter or want to do a casing . If you do the casing option remember to give yourself extra seam allowance when attaching the skirt to the bodice..

and just for laughs  - a little blooper collage. 

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If you have any questions on this tutorial or our patterns or just want some more sewing chatter feel free to join in on our fun in the Facebook Lab group!